The roots of Maboroshi Junmai Daiginjo are found in the discovery of an apple yeast starter mash by 4th generation brewer Kiyoma Nakao right back in 1940. He knew that the biggest factor in determining the aroma and flavor of sake was the yeast used for brewing. Thus from 1927, under the tutelage of Kinichiro Sakaguchi, who later became known as the “god of sake”, Kiyoma set about finding the ideal yeast. In the fermentation sciences laboratory of Tokyo Imperial University, he studied together with the likes of Mr. Mogi from Kikkoman, well-known worldwide for soy sauce production.
Tokyo Imperial University Fermentation Science Laboratory; front row, second from right: Kinichiro Sakaguchi; second row, third from left is Kiyoma Nakao.
Kiyoma collected yeast varieties from all over Japan and conducted fermentation experiments in search of the yeast with the perfect qualities for sake brewing. It needed to offer fermentation power, fragrance and acidity. The chances of finding a single yeast variety with all three qualities were so slim that many even said it would be a miracle. The work required conviction and persistence. In 1930, after four years of study, Kiyoma returned to his brewery in Hiroshima, where he continued to immerse himself in the search for the perfect yeast.
Fourteen years of experiments on more than 2,000 varieties of yeast later, Kiyoma finally came across a yeast variety which released an extraordinary bouquet (referred to as ginjoka). Not only that, the yeast had very powerful alcohol fermentation capabilities and refreshing acidity. Kiyoma had discovered the miracle yeast. Especially rare at the time, he found that this yeast did not yield bubbles during the fermentationprocess. Because the yeast was found in the skin of apples, it later came to be known as apple yeast.
Why apples? Kiyoma was running errands in Kure-shi, Hiroshima,one day and happened to walk past a fruit and vegetable shop. His eyes were drawn to the bright red apples, so he bought some!
